EMP Testing Video

[TWP]

WARNING:  This test uses a simulator to create real Electromagnetic fields which are SIMILAR to an EMP from either a nuclear device or a solar flare.

NO GUARANTEE is made that this is a definitive test of all devices shown in the video.

With the above disclaimer said, it does appear that some electronics MAY survive an EMP. 

The main point made in the video is that the bigger danger is to devices with long wires, either inside or from the power supply.  It is these longer wires which MAY act as antenna for the EMP energy and allow damaging energy to destroy some parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbHK6Uqmzog&feature=youtu.be

SO: are you really safe if you don't store your electric/electronic devices in EMP-proof containers?  NO, you still run a high risk of losing the devices during an actual EMP event.

It is always a better idea to have multiple copies of your devices and store unused units in EMP-proof containers.

You might get lucky, but you can take actions to improve your "luck"...  You make that decision.

[pqtb]

I have learned the hard way that items with transformers build in like Renai propane heaters are vulnerable to power surges.  Some LED light units with transformers may not survive a power surge.  I pray I never have to find out which of the electronics I use in everyday life are not emp proof. 

[TWP]

pqtb:

A "common" power surge through the incoming power lines may be blocked using surge arrestors (also called surge protectors) and/or voltage controllers.  Of course if you have a device which is hard wired to your junction box, for instance the gas fired water heater you mention) you cannot insert a surge arrestor, at least not without re-wiring the device.  I would advise doing this at the time of installation.

That being said, a common power surge is NOT an EMP event.  The end result may be same, dead electronic/electric devices, but the protection needed is very different.

In the original video, it is noted that a lightening arrestor (NOT a surge arrestor) CANNOT act quickly enough to stop a true EMP induced voltage spike.  I am reading conflicting reports on the use of lightening arrestors (also know as spark gaps).  Again, a big factor is the use of longer conductors which may act as antenna elements for the EMP radiation (NO, not atomic radiation, an EMP is electromagnetic radiation).

I repeat my original statement, if you don't have full EMP proof containers, and use them, then the lucky might survive an EMP.

You may throw a lot of money at the problem, installing spark gaps, surge arrestors and voltage controllers into your power system.   The question becomes, could that money be better spent buying multiple devices and EMP proof containers for those backup electronics?

[pqtb]

My challenges was caused by incorrect voltage coming from the grid that was caused by a corroded neutral connection between the dwelling and the pole transformer.  I have had electric fence chargers taking out by lightning hid on the grid that make it thru a surge protector.   I agree on protected redundant equipment in case of EMP or major malfunction of the electric grid destroys your active set.  What will the effect of an emp have on light bulbs or LED lights that are in use or connected to the wiring but not turned on? 

[TWP]

An EMP will induce high voltage in conductors (wires, pipes, fences) which are long enough (just few feet is enough).

That high voltage may (likely will) cause a spark across any pair of close conductors, such as a switch contact points.  That arc is a current, and it can be very high, more than enough to burn out the filament in a standard bulb or fry the electronics of LED lamps.  Florescent bulbs contain starter circuits which are subject to damage (burnout) from high voltage/high current EMP pulses.

RE Lightening, your system might be better protected with "spark gap" arrestors placed in your incoming power lines.  Nothing is perfect, but if you live in lightening country, the power company can advise on added protections.

The incorrect voltage at your AC neutral wire needs to be addressed by an electrician AND the power company.  It is not a surge condition, but more a "brown" out where the voltage is insufficient.  An electrician can recommend the needed changes and, for a price, how to monitor you incoming grid connection.

I'll place the standard disclaimer here:  I am not an electrician and cannot offer advice.   I just spent enough time teaching Physics and Chemistry to learn about this stuff.